Pretty BS. Won’t be surprised if it’s AI generated. Architecture is far too complicated and varied to compare their characteristics from a tiny cartoonish building. Not to mention all architecture varies wildly from era and region.

I use a j tip for fine SMD. You still have a fine point but you also have a broad elbow good for drag soldering and other larger components.

Remember that all the flux you use will need to be cleaned off eventually. That can sometimes be a pain if there’s a lot.

Both, which is why conical tips suck. They make poor contact with the pin and pad. With a chisel tip you make good contact with the pin and pad

You add some solder to the tip, then drag it across the pin and pad. Solder flows towards heat and if the joint is properly heated the solder should flow beautifully.

Sometimes the pad isn’t heated (probably because the conical tip isn’t heating it) and doesn’t want to stick to the pad. It can also be due to oxidation on the joint surface. Add some flux to the surface and try again, allowing the iron to melt and activate the flux.

I solder for work and I cover my tip every time I put it down. Never ever needed to use tip tinner. Also never had to replace a tip either.

One tip that isn’t mentioned is DITCH THE CONICAL TIP, USE A CHISEL TIP.

Conical tips have terrible thermal contact, as they have both poor surface area in contact. Also the tip is further from the heating element, preventing it from heating faster.

Additionally that tiny point doesn’t store any heat, it cools down significantly as soon as it touches anything. A broad chisel tip stores more heat and is far more appropriate for through hole joints like this.

Probably because it is a “dumb iron” with no thermal control. As soon as it touches anything it cools way down. Nowadays fortunately, cartridge tip irons are cheap if you’re willing to buy from China. Cartridge tips have the heating element and temp probe built directly into the tip, heat up and adjust extremely fast to thermal loads.